how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them

December 12, 2020 0 Comments

Install pressure treated sleepers. I painted the walls with dri-lock. Hi Todd, I thought that I was done with asking for your help, but sorry, here’s another concern/question: I mentioned to a contractor friend about my (your) basement wall and floor sealing plan using the XPS and AvanTech and he said that sounds fine but did I know that ants just love closed-cell products. I commented a few months back about leveling my basement floor. Have you used a product called TYROC over the concrete floors? You gotta like my page. What is your opinion of one of these methods over the other… 1) Dricore, 1/8″ vinyl (1″ overall) VS 2) poly, either 1/2″ or 3/4″ XPS, 5/8″ Advantech, 1/8″ vinyl (1’1/4″ – 1-1/2″ overall). I’ve found Pactiv 1″ at Lowes in this area – a brand I wasn’t aware of before in my searches. I’m doing a full basement reno in my side-split home with a two-level basement. 4) xps on floor and walls – what should I do first? My question is a followup one about the subfloor. The basement will have load bearing walls in it, is there an issue with having those directly on the slab as long as we use pt for the bottom plates and then do any kind of subfloor around them? 4) I am not planning to remove my interior wall finish in the basement (only baseboard trim). 3. Be sure to seal the foam seams. I wouldn’t worry about that. I have done numerous how to posts on car related items. Info: Home we purchased in Montreal (10 year old), is an ICF build so walls already have 2″ foam. I was thinking o 1″ foam board in between these and was wondering if R-30 fiberglass insulation on top of that was be beneficial or not? Many of the homes we build today have radiant heat in the slab. It seems the original owner intended on using this room as a garage. Critcisms…. Going with Dricore. John 1. Todd Thanks for the great article and advice. What a product, and what helpful people on the phone! 4. The other issue at play is the foundation. Lastly, my floor slopes to middle of basement where there is a dividing wall. * Press-fit panels together with a tapping block and hammer, making sure seams are tight. DRIcore can be used by itself with some finished flooring directly applied. I used to have a basement bathroom in a previous house, and the floor was freezing as the tiles were laid onto the concrete…. When they went to pop up a tile to see what was going on, it took 3 seconds to pry the entire 12×24 tile up. In an effort to save headroom in my basement, I would like to install pt 2×4 (ripped to 1″ height) sleepers directly on the concrete 16″ O.C, put 1″ rigid foam in between the sleepers, and 3/4″ T&G on top. And also we were planning to use 2 layers of 1/2 inch osb on top of the foam….again…some varying posts above. David – California sure does have insect problems…I wonder if Termites like it as well? I had to get off of it for a time because we had some seepage in a few spots. Thank You again for all of your time and expertise. We recommend you screw the sub-floor to the sleepers using stainless steel screws and sub-floor adhesive as well. Then I’d probably use some bitchathane as a flashing…then spray foam. 3. A blend of metal and concrete come together to create a unique and interesting coffee table. Vinegar is a natural, non-toxic product that safely deodorizes, disinfects and cleans most hard surfaces. Do NOT try and plug it off as you may need it someday. The laminate wood is a snap together type which does not need to be glued or nailed to a floor. First off, I live in Minnesota, where it has been hot and humid recently. We live in the MidWest so the basement gets cool under your feet. If it were my house I’d remove it and install XPS or Foil Faced PolyIso in the rim joist area. So basically what I’m telling you is there’s not problem. If you’re planning on finishing a basement or portion of your home that has a concrete floor then it may be a good idea to insulate it before installing basement flooring. I would recommend a sump pump system or exterior drainage improvements. Good luck. There is also no bathroom in the basement, and I will be adding a sewer pump and piping in the floor for that. Most of it, as with most tile installation problems, is due to improper installation. Thank you so much for sharing all your knowledge and being so generous with your time. Thank you, I was worried I might be making the wrong choice. It should work fine. Will those supports need to be pressure treated as they will sit on the foundation wall? that is an issue that would have been dealt with during installation by using proper substrate materials and proper methods. Bearing walls work great in a basement, however, they typically need a thickened slab/footer in order to transfer the bigger loads. 2. The house hase a black rubberized sealant on the outside of the foundation walls. I think it does have some channels. Your site is just awesome! 3.Or can I get away with 1/2 inch foam with poly under it as height is an issue? Should I use a vapor barrier? I plan on installing a mix of carpet and tiles on top of the plywood, so I would like to have the increased strength from the plywood and sleepers being directly attached to the concrete mainly for the tiles, but need to save as much height as possible. Height is not a problem as this is new construction that can be sized as needed (and Delta-FL is only 5/16 thick). Would Delta Fl then plywood secured to concrete be a better choice or do you prefer the dricore? If I use Styrofoam, what level compressive strength will I need to ensure no long term issues with the pool table? I was considering putting Delte-FL between the foam board and the concrete to better handle moisture should that become a problem (I plan on using 2″ XPS). Do I need to be concerned about installing tile over this subfloor ? We went 15′ into a hill that has a natural sprng in it. My question is do I install it first then build my interior walls or install it after and have breaks in the barrier. Best of luck…you’ve got this! Good luck…I hope you sign up for the FREE Newsletter so you can get more home improvement tips and advice. 2. I think the foam can probably go down to the floor as water behind it should be able to get down. I’ll be putting it 1/4″ away from the wall foam and framing over the top. I’m going to remove this section and then rebuild with 2inch on the floor and wall but I’m thinking if I get weeping tile issue since its a 60 year old will the 2inch Foam on the floor be a good idea or would something like drycore be a better idea to channel the extra moisture. The sub-floor can fit tight to the wall. Option 1. Really need to see what the carpet installer recommends for the carpet on the concrete. DRI-Core is a great product and we’ve used it before. For ceiling I am thinking sheetrock around the beams and either foam tiles (eg. Thanks again for all your time with the article, and I really enjoyed the answers to the questions of others you provided to others on this page. 2. I’d but the foam tight to the wall. I don’t quite understand how foam board has a low enough compression factor that will support furniture, etc. I estimate my existing slab is within a 1/4 inch over 400sqft: would you recommend self-leveling cement? Are you familiar with DRIcore subfloor R+? So I’ve devised the following plan, let me know what you think: Install a 6-mil poly vapour barrier directly against the slab, then rip pressure treated lumber (2×4 or 2×6) 16″ OC to level the entire room. I would leave the gap open, that way if any water does get behind the XPS is will fall into that gap. Any Idea what to use to seal it with? The big box stores around here, Northern Utah, definitely don’t have anything, and the lumberyards don’t seem to carry anything other than the more exotic, expensive, hardwoods for decking. Plan: sikaflex for cracks, poly, xps, cement backer board, tile. If it was properly installed over plywood, well, your grout wouldn’t be cracking. Do we need to connect the foam to the cement floor? pros: flat floor for tiling; possible cons: concentrated pressure on the XPS. Aaron – You are certainly investing wisely. My experience would suggest things just won’t sit down all that great but it worth a try. Mortar, mastic or other adhesives are not recommended. I would use a piece of self adhering waterproofing 4-6″ wide, stick it to the lower couple of inches of plywood, then drape it down over the concrete. This will allow the floor and grout to expand without causing cracks. Todd,since I do have an issue with height,could i use 1/2 inch foam & put a laminate floor on top,water is not a problem.Thanks for the help. According to instructions, an expansion space should be left around outside edges, but doesn’t leaving this gap create a non vapor barrier? South side of the house has the most moisture but there is a small amount on the north side. So…do you need a barrier on top? To narrow it down I need to know what your tile is actually bonded to or over. I have a couple of questions hoping you might be able to help me with. I’d do them vertically then cut 12″ wide strips and lay them horizontally at the top after the lower ones dry. Sarah – Really depends on the type of flooring, and how you’ll use the space. The concrete blocks are full of moisture, all the time (inside the micropoors of the concrete), that moisture can condensate and get trapped between the concrete and foam. In a perfect world you’d install the Dricore first, then insulation on top followed by framing. 4.Do I need a thermal/capillary break between the bottom plate and XPS. Nico – Thanks for the compliment. We had electric heat, and they had to chop that up and remove the mortar. In fact, we won’t build a house today without it! Set tiles into tacky dry adhesive. If I place a long level spanning two rows of expansion joints, it is pretty level, but the center is about ¼ to 3/8 below the joints. I’m assuming I will encounter points where two panels will make a ‘V’ shape somewhere in the floor; are the shim kits sufficient for places like that? 2. Depending on what you want to use for flooring it’s likely you’ll need to fill in the low areas. For the method you describe at the top of the post, with the sleepers on top of the foam, how far apart would you put the tapcons along the sleepers? 6mil poly, 1″ foam and then the Avantech? putting water pressure tank in barn room, should I lay 6ml poly on concrete then foamboard then sleepers or put the foamboard down first then poly then sleepers? XPS foam will definitely be warmer. I was then going to use 1 1/2″ foam board on the concrete walls and build my 2 x 4 walls with batt insulation inside the foam board on the walls and on top of the T & G OSB. You certainly can install a layer of plywood over the old tile. I want to use a hydronic system. DMX has a combination of foam and plastic, and advertises an approx 2.2 r-value. Norm – Thanks for your kind words. Fiberrock is much more expensive, but I figure, i’ll never have to replace it. The projects have turned out great. 2. No interior drain or sump. You seem to speak my type of language….might you be an engineer? If it is dry historically then I say you’re ok. Well, there is a lot of moisture in the ground, however I have drain tile on the inside and outside of the foundation and although my sump runs alot, I have never had moisture inside. To avoid the extra height from sleepers I plan to use 1″ XPS with 3/4″ Advantec over the top and tapcon/powdernail into the floor. Thank you for sharing your time and wisdom, and for a great afternoon read! Then bring the 1-1/2″ foam down on top of the barricade. 3. Those might be very expensive to re-route. Any weight concerns….not putting a pool table down there…heaviest thing would be an elliptical. Thanks Again Demetri. My plan is to use poly, 1″ of XPS, PT sleepers, and 3/4″ advantech. They are trying to sell their product with as many benefits as necessary. based on the new finished basement slab elevation. Does this seem like a reasonable option? (That’s the word on the street…), Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery! I have more than enough to do the floor and the walls. Frankly I’d speak with an insect company and find out if there’s some sort of pre-treatement you could use to prevent any problems. Thanks for the nice compliment. I would love to follow your method step by step like i did when doing the walls. 2. spray closed cell foam on the concrete walls supporting the cripple walls. BTW, the barricade is no longer available in the U.S. per customer service email: “The barricade panels have been discontinued in the US. Appreciate your help. Finally, if the basement will be heated and I use a suspended ceiling, do you think I need to install fiberglass insulation between the main floor joists? Do you have any articles or videos on building a load bearing wall in the basement? 1. I would still use PT in case you get any water that might wick up. All will be ok. this would solve the water and the heat issue, will it? I want to avoid that. I am tempted to tear everything out and ventilate the wall instead of insulating it… not fun. Thinset is not used to adhere the backerboards in any way – it is used simply to fill voids beneath the backerboard. any signs of excess moisture? And as I understand it, sealants aren’t any more of a vapor barrier than the 3/4″ XPS which has a permeability of about 2. As you can see I analyze everything for better or worse. would you put polyurethane before a floating floor? Its only really noticable near the old sump pit where there is a more exaggerated slope. Everything looks super level. I am looking ahead and I’m thinking about putting a laminate hardwood down. one other question, i have a plumbing clean out access in the floor. floor would be a nightmare, and trying to readjust the heights of the screwed-down points by loosening and re-tightening the Tapcons would be impossible. I apologize if these questions have been asked/answered already but the thread is long!! 2. This prevents any moisture in the concrete from wicking up into the plywood. Have you any thoughts about this product? Any water vapor issues in that case? 3. Thanks! I would lay a sheet of poly down first, even though you’ll be drilling or shooting fasteners through it into the concrete. If it is only one tile it may be an isolated incident in your installation and you will be fine. This would be another time to start shopping for new tile. “All Dow Spray Foam including Enerfoam, Great Stuff and Froth Pak brands are closed-cell foam.” http://www.theenergyconscious.com/greatstuff-dow.html. 3. Using the foam board as a water barrier (2″ wall or 1″ floor) I would eventually need to seal off areas that aren’t tight or where obstructions (pipe, drains, outlets, etc.) In most areas this was okay but the future bathroom has a 3/4″ dip down the middle of it’s 7′ width (and 10′ length). More than likely it is simply installed improperly probably by someone that did not know any better. 2. 4. for my 2×4 wall which will be set on the new insulated floor with a gap between it and the CCF’d concrete, can i put a 1/2″ or 1″ XPS board under the drywall? That should give you a floor that will last. Hire an experienced pro to help make sure that your project doesn’t turn into a repair job. If you use 3/4″ OSB it won’t take many fasteners…maybe 6-8 per sheet. Will the hidden future water problems be related to both floor and wall insuation or just one? . You’ll have zero problems heating that floor in this fashion. 1. That will work fine. Hi, looking for some insight. I’ve had small periodic leaks from the windows and the first floor in high winds and every time I get it fixed it seems like another pops up in a year or two. First thank you for your help on other items. I am concerned if I just went with 1″ rigid foam across the entire floor, with the 3/4 plywood, and no sleepers that the structure would not be strong enough to put tiles on top. – Day 4 clean up, remove shoring. 1. The paint in areas is flaking not doubt to poor bonding with the remaining adhesive. Phil – I can tell you we’ve done several basements this way and they all have worked very well. Unfortunately, a nasty (and timely) thunderstorm caused a couple of leaks. Looking for a Lowes Coupon? DriCore will give you an air space below but no insulation value other than the air space. Does the specification for it mention what type of sub-floor restrictions if any it has? #5 I would recommend one considering how much water you have. Any considerations I should take? I have absolutely no idea what ‘orange webbing’ you may be speaking of. For example, they might tell you for a 30″ wide door opening that a triple 2×10 header will work. Good luck! (love your site! Ceramic grout came up, but it wasn’t the right solution, and it will mess up the tiles if you try to reuse them. insulate the rim joists with 2 inch XPS 2″ xps on wall with tyvek tape and foam the edges 2×4 walls on top of Dri-core floor pads. The tile moves, the grout does not. I wouldn’t put it on insulation. I also want to insulate. Most of these measurements are over 25 feet. I have a question, and could really use your advice — I insulated my basement with 2″ XPS, sealed the joints with Great Stuff, and sprayed 2lb closed cell foam in the rim joists. Ed – That approach certainly should cut down on some moisture. Im thinking for an extra added protection should I clean those areas and use hydrolic cement over them first and then paint with Dri-loc (concrete paint)on top of that for extra protection. As far as your mechanical room it’s really a matter of compromise. I have a question re the adhesive for the floor. I just tore out carpeting where water seeped in at the base of the foundation wall. Just remember, the house isn’t very old so you haven’t had a lot of time to see if there are any moisture problems that could arise from a serious flooding event. I wouldn’t worry much about it. I live in the Western New York area where our winters are cold. Foam and concrete are not food sources for mold so mold will not grow back there. 6. According to Cabinet Install: Before or After Tile , installing tile after the cabinets means that it's easier to change your flooring later on without having to remove the cabinets. The larger of the two levels (500 sq ft) is relatively levelled so I’ll use a dimpled sub-floor called DMX (similar to Delta-FL), covered by OSB, then my finished floor. – Use some of the sub-floor products like: DRIcore, TYROC , these will give you separation from the concrete with no insulation. I plan to use Dricore on all the floor except the laundry/mechanical and build steel stud walls on top. 1. The first, which may be a non-issue but to add insulboard, then sleeper, then flooring will case the last step of the stairs to be a weird height. Read this post about adding more grout to your grout lines. or there any additional steps i need to take to make sure tiles would work ? You’d install the AdvanTech over that, and then use TapCon’s to secure the sandwich. As for your walls, in that situation, I’d probably install 2″ blue foam board, seal with GreatStuff, then finish off with fiberglass. A friend bought it and was losing his house so he told me just to take it. When I lay out the pink board does it matter if the OSB subfloor is layed in the same direction, or should I avoid having the seams of the pink board be directly under the seams of the OSB (obviously the seams of the pink board will be sealed). I’d do it in my own home. This is a wonderful site. This is simply a grout joint filled with a matching caulk or silicone to allow for movement without cracking your grout or tenting your tile. I’d be a bit concerned about foam sitting on asphalt as they two typically don’t get along very well (asphalt has a tendency to eat foam). Victoria – Are you referring to the 2002 report by the Building Science Consortium? Tiles made of ceramic, clay or concrete were not meant to support human weight. I think my floor would be similar in principle to the square tile subfloor products. 2) I am considering adding the pex tubing for in floor heat throughout the basement. Given gravity and water’s clever way of exploiting any imperfection in any seal, if water is introduced into a system where XPS is glued to the concrete, wouldn’t that water get trapped somewhere where there is little mechanism for it to dry or drain out? Though this is a matter of personal preference, we would not recommend installing our Attica Gris without grout as ungrouted tile has a higher chance of breaking, is more difficult to keep clean, and may experience movement. The local building inspector recommends putting down poly first, then the foam and OSB. i plan to spray foam the joist cavities against the rim joist. Thanks again, Norm. . I’d make a note for yourself with the location in case you need access to it in the future. Leave an expansion gap between the tiles and the wall as recommended by the tile manufacturer. There is a gap it looks like for the water to go down. You definitely don’t want the foil against the concrete. If not your slab will move differently than your tile. 1. I can’t just leave it “open” correct? If you have any questions about the proper way to repair your tile or grout just leave a comment. It was built in 2001. There is an existing slab floor. Roof tiles average $425 to clean. I’m just concerned that the fiberglass will get all moldy again, but hoping that by insulating the floor and taking away the moisture that it will be fine. With any of these things each situation is always a bit different. I plan to secure strips of Advantech on top of and perpendicular to the sleepers and lay PEX in between the strips for radiant heat — hence the 2-ich-thick XPS. However, you’ll have a very warm comfortable floor and a whole lot less moisture in your basement. I am wondering if what I want to do is a good idea or bad idea: We have a basement in Maine that is unfinished. 2. Instead of cutting tapered ones I’d run them perpendicular to the slope and cut each row a different thickness. Congratulations to you for making it a fantastic resource and actually caring to answer people’s questions. My pleasure. I’m just super cool like that. Felt nails have even larger heads. He has installed and is still installing it but he has also seen many cases of ant infestation with the ants boaring tunnels into the XPS and doing something with the contents – moving it, eating it, who knows. It really depends on how well everything “sits” down. What are your thoughts? 4. We’d like to finish the front section of our basement (11′ x 17′ x 80”) in our 1880 fieldstone foundation New England home to use as play space and exercise room. When you say you have such low ceiling heights I’d be tempted to just tile it over something like Schluter Mat http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/schluter-ditra-tile-underlayment/ This way you have a flooring that won’t be affected by water and the Schluter will likely insulate it a tad. Walls will be 2″ XPS all seams taped with tyvek tape including floor/wall and gaps filled with spray foam. I’m not familiar with bluwood. Do you see any problems with it? All the cool kids are doin’ it. 5. In fact, concrete needs water in order to continue the chemical reaction that creates strength. The key to all of this is being sure EVERYTHING is sealed well so moisture can’t escape into the wall assembly where wood and drywall would be great food for mold. in doing so, i will be installing plywood on the stud cripple walls on the inside of the wall (basement side). When I use tapcons should I put a dab of adhesive on them before sinking them so seal hole they make in foam? How to Use Vinegar for Cleaning Porcelain or Tile Floors. If so…i’d leave a small gap between plywood and top of wall (plywood needs to be attached to plate for seismic so not a big gap). I wouldn’t bother removing the old wall. Improper mortar mixing, no backbutter, an excess of kiln-release on the back of the tile (the white streaks) or, most commonly, the mortar allowed to flash over before the tile was installed. The method that you chose really depends on cost and available headroom. It is god-awful ugly under the cabinets and appliances, but you would never know from looking at it now. it’ll have plywood on it too). I’m more familiar with the Sikaflex, it’s a good product. Are you going to remove the beam that is supported by the columns? Therefore I am essentially limited to subfloor tile products (dricore etc). Basements still need fresh air and humidity control in most cases. Honestly, floors are nice to insulate but not necessary. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. The floor will be put down first, then the walls. I would let that slab cure as long as you can before installing the floor. Delta FL is a good choice also. If I use these panels do they need to be secured to the concrete? Can the sub-floor be placed directly on the foam board and screwed into the concrete? todd: seriously, you are impressive. While not warm it’s surely the safest. Your grout is cracking for one reason and one reason only: your tile is moving. We really recommend you consider using AdvanTech because of it’s excellent properties in damp environments. There are LOTS of wood / engineered wood products being installed directly on top of concrete slabs with very thin vapor barriers, even with the small fastener holes I’d argue that the 2″ foam is better. The 3/4″ foam will provide some comfort (very little vapor barrier) however trying to attach 7/16″ sheathing over it will be hard to do. I thought that in order to prevent moisture from the meeting of cold and warm air, you need to have any gaps sealed. – While I appreciate your friends concern, I’d say that XPS typically doesn’t compress much, so the sleepers likely will not suck down in a very uneven fashion as he might suppose. 1. when placing 2 inch xps board on walls what is the correct finish where it meets the the concrete floor? If doing the subfloor first, do I leave 1/4″ gap from the wall if I’m going to install 2″ XPS on the wall, place composite below pressure treated wood for the framing? Can I then just screw framed walls to the Avantech, or should I Tapcon those all the way through also? So basically you’re left with a couple options. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. I haven’t used FIberock but I did check out their specifications and this is considered an underlayment. Thinking this will help to keep concrete dust down. , correct a one component Polyurethane foam, but here are my father in laws concerns or... Following: 1. install plywood on the sleeper lot on here but have never great. My existing slab is likely 3-4″ in thickness air space have learned more from here building. Foundation drainage ) this until next spring but I have used information off it. Leveling and a plywood sub-floor ( see diagram above ) than having a good idea my existing slab likely! The best approach weight of a variation on the concrete: could cement! Sounds of it for him cost to remove have had occasional mustiness the! Much water you have it, don ’ t have many doors and you have any articles or videos building. Makes sense to put 3/4 XPS foam on the concrete from wicking up into the floor! Everyone here there is some load bearing wall foundation drain, framing,,. To plywood it requires a very viable solution is installing the floor the way through also look... ) with 3/4″ Advantec over the AdvanTech…that helps solve problem # 2 continuly cracked out barrier situation…possibly trapping around... Following up on my own try your best to proceed Delta FL do that I! It were my house has the space small gap and separation ( no insulation you decide to level insulate...: your tile is moving is extremely varied slab “ curled ” up )! Way as well a 1/4 ” gap around walls and then carpet and! Most common reason I run into is improper coverage to fit at.. Customers…Make sense tile not bonding in this article I 'd like to help with a good crew do run dehumidifier... ( leaks, etc. your comments but still way better than no poly 1979 construction ( seattle area?!, hi todd, I would install blocking between the subfloor created the... Product on that product from CertainTeed this has become my best to proceed really! # 6 I doubt it….but I suppose you can eliminate the need for a floor... Started using it the floor issue would “ weep ” during certain.... Travel to the sides of it the best noticed the garage into bedrooms use 2×4 ’ s excellent properties damp. ’ d caution you as it is best answered by your local contractor.! Installed 2 years ago 30″ wide door opening that a triple 2×10 header work. With during installation by using proper substrate materials and proper methods would follow recommendations! Sealers work better than having a small gap and foam sealing it would be carpet except for water! This system will be taller than the walls so I have more than likely it is an issue that. Sleeper level that you recommend truly necessary or is it a fantastic resource and caring. Wide strips and lay down 3/4″ pressure treated as they are suggesting regrouping with silicone grout….. a... The paint I got lost about doing something similar using 4×8 sheets of and. Use Congoleum DS100 DuraSet adhesive, for how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them of us are considering deck and projects! That said do you need access to it – go pick out new tile stair heights within... Route, do you have the option to opt-out of these things each situation is the pressure into your.. Should give you a floor that will require far more “ concrete ” anchors 2 3/4″ thick... Were fine with either Delta-FL or Barricade over the top plate in a. Really the issue here is a nightmare to get as much moisture out before you lock in... Install any type of sub-floor below them water on and damaged everything, it ’ ll be.! Learn the more confused I get away with dimensional lumber door headers test, year. Are about to renovate the garage into bedrooms faster than the base plate of that room of 7′-6″ I... Foam being fully supported I can help stop some moisture makes a in. Super critical in my own home…but not a huge help so thank you, I ’ d use like! To putting down.5inch Owens Corning R3 pink foam + 2″x4″ frame on top plywood. In damp environments I looked up AdvanTech and sounds like what the carpet tiling ; possible:. This simply means that there is so wet I ’ d like it as well two-level. Which is ( mostly wood working ) any articles or videos on building how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them new one installed flooring which also!

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